2 August 2009 - Hobuck Beach

All good things do not have to come to an end. I write this while sitting on a Pacific beach, waiting for the sun to make its final descent of my PNT journey--an adventure where I hiked 1,000 miles viewing some of the most impressive natural gems of our world while becoming better acquainted with some of the different personalities that populate our world. I am not saddened by the closing minutes of this adventure. Instead, I am excited to have logged an incredible life experience that no one can ever take from me and that will exist forever as long as I remain in the proper mind to live its learnings.

This trip has taught me to live a more simplified life. All I need is nourishment, shelter, and companionship. Anything else is a luxury and potentially frivolous. Tonight I inventoried my back pack. Everything left after 51 days was essential for this trip (anything not needed had long been discarded); however, few of these items will have any relevance for my life starting tomorrow. For this reason I threw away about half of the contents of my bag this evening. I could use these items again when I go on another long through hike, but it is just too valuable for me to have a liberated mind, free from the clutter of misc., well used gear which would be more expensive to store for years than to buy new. For the rest of my life, my adventure will remind me what is truly needed, preventing me from accummulating excess.

This trip reinforced my belief that the world is full of great people, curious to share stories and to help a traveler. This was evident from all the hospitality that we received along the way: free food, free drinks, reduced lodging, ride offers, future adventure invitations, and much more. Going forward, I will remember this, allowing me to have more confidence and less apprehension while traveling. There is always some great person willing to help. Additionally, I will be better to travelers passing through my town that I meet. I'm excited to buy a beer, offer a couch, or give some advice in exchange for a story and for the spirit of adventure. For the rest of my life, this adventure will remind me to be a good traveler and a welcoming host.

I can't express all the ways the past 51 days have affected the rest of my life. Nor can I even know all the long term effects. I'm going to let this experience live on forever, and I'm going to let it contribute to the long line of adventures that will occur in my life. The sun has still not set, but the beach has emptied except for me. My body is shaking from the symbolism of this moment. I can already tell that I see the world differently.



Barefoot hiking on the second to last day.

Walking on sand.

Another shot of some of the beach.

Eating our final breakfast of the trip.

Trying to keep feet dry during high tide.


Putting my shoes back on after our final ford of the trip.

Rachel and Dave deciding to play in the ocean a bit before putting on shoes after our last ford.

Tide out, revealing a very large beach.

Rachel electing to go under some rocks.

The final stretch of land to navigate. Our "finish line" and the sun was just around this corner.

David reflecting after we finished the hike on Shi Shi beach.

31 July 2009 - Chilean Memorial

After forty-nine days of hiking, we have reached the Pacific Ocean. Knowing that we'd be camping on the beach tonight, today's 18 miles from Forks, Washington flew by. Throughout the walk I kept anticipating our grand entrance on the beach, almost envisioning a comparable feeling as those felt by Merriweather Lewis, Magellan, or Balboa when they met the Pacific. Instead, I was greeted by a crowded parking lots and long lines at a public bathroom. Whatever the case it is great to have reached the ocean after nearly 50 days of everything else.

The Pacific is the ultimate barrier to our westward journey. We've found and created routes up, over, under, and around mountains, lakes, rivers, dams, deserts, quarries, cities, and fields of blowdown, but we are finally being stopped by the Pacific. Because we can no longer head west, we will spent the next two days hiking north along the ocean to Neha Bay.

I cannot comprehend that this adventure is almost over. It still hasn't sunk in that I am camped a few yards from the ocean. This adventure has consumed me, and I can't foresee a different. life.


More people come to this part of the country to see where the series Twilight takes place than to hike.

Typical site from our first day on the coast.

29 July 2009 - Bogashiel River

Tonight is our last evening in Olympic National Park. By early afternoon tomorrow, we should be in the town of Forks resupplying. The next day we will be on the coast in the Olympic National Wilderness.

Besides being another long day (22 plus miles), it was another scorching day. A park ranger we encountered in the park notified us that we were experiencing a record heat wave [Later learned it was the hottest few days in the history of the state]. This fits the trend of our walk considering it has been hot and sunny almost every day. In nearly 50 days, we have only encountered rain four times...even though we are camping in a rain forest tonight.

The intense heat further increases the need to supply our bodies with adequate fuel. Out on the trail, food and water has taken on a new meaning. Instead of looking forward to meals as an enjoyable affair, I now count the miles until I can load up on energy. When eating, I quickly shove as much food in my mouth as fast as I can. I do not savor anything. I just need the calories.

I don't think any of us have eaten the appropriate number of calories while hiking. We've been relying too much on our fat reserves. Unfortunately, I think I have used up too much of my reserves already. Not only that, but my body wants more variety in my food. I can't wait until my body likes food again. [Note after the fact: On this trip I lost about 25 pounds from my already relatively small body]


Rachel with a sign atop of Appleton Pass. Rachel is from Appleton, Wisconsin.

Resting by some very cold water, a huge relief on a record hot day.

Heart Lake. We didn't stop to swim, but I wish we would have.

Some little lakes/ponds in the background.

Walking along the contours.

It was so hot, a huge number of elk congregated on one of the few remaining snow piles. That brown spot in the middle of the snow pile is actually at least 30 elk.

Rapidly evaporating subalpine ponds.

Where are the Ewoks?

27 July 2009 - Olympic National Park - Boulder Creek

Today was our second day in Olympic National Park. We had a grueling 23 mile day--with all miles either going up or down--but ultimately were awarded with a campsite near natural hot springs.

Today's walk alternated between rarely used trails where we encountered no one and high density trails that felt like we were in a parade. For one of the high density trails, we walked along a road for a few miles which ended at the trail head. The trail head parking lot was full of cars, an overflow lot was even required for a Monday. The trail itself was steep but wide and paved. We had yet to see a trail so wide and clear. Due to its condition, we probably encountered thirty people on the short paved section--after a mile, the pavement ended and we saw no one. I wasn't surprised by the number of people due to the trail's accessibility, level of difficulty, and beauty. It was one of the most beautiful stretches of trail that we'd encountered yet.

Due to the high volume of people, both David and Rachel were critical of the trail. At one time I would have agreed with them, but now I support this type of trail. For the past seven weeks we have walked strenuous trails, seeing practically no one. We have traversed 100s of miles that seemed to be maintained solely for us. Now we are in a national park, crowded with people trying to easily see some of our country's natural treasures. As a national park, these treasures should be accessible. If someone gets frustrated by the crowds and ease of use, he could hike any of the other 1,000 miles we have hiked on this trip. Who cares if there are some places that people can invest just an afternoon and be able to experience something breathtaking?

Over the course of our trip, we have become accustomed with our style of travel--hiking everywhere. This mode has become so natural that we occasionally find ourselves being critical of any non-ambulatory mode of transit. It is easy to get immersed in our world, but I'm going to be realistic: If everyone lived like we are, we'd be in the middle ages.

Mount Angeles or some mountain adjacent to it.


Trails are very easy to follow in this National Park...a big relief from all our bushwhacking.


Another clear trail with some nice wildflowers.

Photo taken with camera resting on a log.

Enjoying a view.

Mount Olympus.

26 July 2009 - Port Angeles

We are on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington. From Bellingham, we took a series of ferries here. Now we will walk west to the Pacific through Olympic National Park.


Lighthouse in Victoria, BC as seen from the ferry.

22 July 2009 - Mt. Baker Wilderness - Ruth Creek

Today marked the 40th day since hiking began in Glacier National Park. Below is a list of all the items I am carrying (minus food), and their current condition after 40 days.



[N = New Item purchased for trip, O = Old item used on previous trips]

• Salomon Goretex Trail Shoes (N) - Completely shot. Laces broken. Large holes in both toe boxes make shoes look like sandals. All traction has worn off, making dangerous on up and down grades (which is all I do). Will buy replacement shoes in Bellingham.


• Smart Wool Socks 2 pair (N) - Despite my efforts to clean a pair each day, these each carry a few pounds of dirt, are very stiff, contain awful odors, but have no holes.


• Champion Running Shorts (O) - Three holes have developed, and they smell like sweat which shouldn't be a surprise considering they double as my underwear.


• Black "diaper" wind brief underwear (O) - Rarely wear. Brough as a novelty to make other hikers awkward. Unfortunately, I have yet to meet another hiker while wearing them.


• Rainpants (O) - 4 or 5 new holes, but they are still waterproof. Double as my only pair of pants and are effective at stopping mosquite bites.


• Columbia Raincoat (O) - Has helded up fine. Primarily serves as a barrier against mosquitoes. Breathes poorly, making it impracticle on hot days.


• Mt. Hardware Long Sleeve T (O) - Have worn for at least part of the day everyday. Breathes well. Covered in blood, tree pitch, and ash stains. Large hole on right elbow caused by fall.


• Champion Long Sleeve T (O) - Only wear on cold nights. No change in condition.


• Timex Watch (O) - Large scratch over the hour digit.


• Tilley Airflow hat (N) - Wear constantly while hiking. Stained and smelly, but no major breaks.


• REI trekking poles (N) - Completely scratched up, bent, one pole jammed so it doesn't change size, both baskets have fallen off, and a deer ate noticeable chunks out of both handles.


• REI morningstar backpack (O) - Just as strudy as when I bought it in 2005.


• Lycra gloves (O) - No changes besides odor.


• Bear spray (N) - Unused but taken out of the holster a few times.


• Rope (N) - Covered in pitch. About 1 yard was gnawed on by a deer.


• Bear Bell (N) - Missing cover. Quit using.


• Sasquatch Journal (N) - Intact but a bad journal to begin with.


• Toiletry Items (N) - Smaller quantities remain.


• Hiker Pro Waterfilter (O) - Need replacement filter. Used more than expected because Aquamira bottle/filter fell off of a cliff.


• MSR Bladder (3 liter water holder) (N) - slight leak when full


• Bungee cord (O) - good.


• Harmonica in key of C (N) - Getting rusty


• Spork (N) - good.


• Plate (N) - have yet to use.


• Bic lighter (N) - fell in pitch so doesn't stay lit long. I do not anticipate on making another fire for the remainder of the trip


• Compass (O) - I sure hope it works still. I got this far.


• Duct tape (O) - good.


• REI Tent fly (N) - 1 hole that I ducted taped up. Other parts of tent are carried by Rachel and Dave.


• MSR stove and fuel (N) - Good. Quit using. Only eating dry food now.


• Passport (O) - I sure hope its intact


• Wallet (O) - I sure hope its intact


• Knife (O) - sand in the handle


• Towel (O) - very stained


• Kelty Light Yr Sleeping Bag (O) - smells worse


• Thermarest Prolite small sleeping pad (O) - stained


• Greatland headlamp (O) - Falls apart daily


• Pink camo pocket bible (N) - Good. I'm into Chronicles.

Body Inventory

• Feet - extremely dried out and shrunk. Calluses throughout. Left big toe is black. Right big toe in pain, shoots out puss.


• Legs - there is not a single square inch that doesn't have a cut, bruise, or bug bite


• Abdomen - Backpack tan


• Arms - Large gouge on right arm


• Shoulders - looks like one huge bug bite


• Beard - Awesome. Roughly 1.5 inches long.

Cascades in the Cascades. I understand where the park gets its name.

Glaciers and cascades in the Cascades.

Cascades in the Cascades.

More glaciers.

A river that we camped next to. This is either in the North Cascades or it is the Pasayten River which we hiked in for hours.

David and Rachel taking a cable car across river.

Taking a cable car across a stream in the North Cascades.

Got to have more harmonica.

21 July 2009 - North Cascades National Park

I don't believe in luck, whether good or bad. Instead, I believe things happen. Based on the situation, there is always some probability of a desirous outcome. Lately, the odds have been in our favor....we've had plenty of times where the odds weren't.

While detouring our route due to a forest fire, we passed by a ranger cabin. The ranger viewed our plans and recommended an alternative trail that would shave two days off our detoured route and one day off our original route. We took the suggestion because we risked running out of food by going the extra two days. We had shipped food to Ross Lake Resort, and we could now resupply quicker than anticipated. We beat the odds.

Ross Lake Resort is the only privately owned entity within the Ross Lake National Recreation Area--a narrow park which serves as a buffer between the Pasayten Wilderness and the NOrth Cascades National Park. Ross Lake is more appropriately called a reservoir. While the lake's three dams were being built, a floating city was created for the construction crews. The city needed to float because the water level was always changing as the dams grew. The Ross Lake Resort is all that is left of the floating city.

We arrived at the resort yesterday evening. We picked up our food and requested renting one of their floating cabins. Typically, all cabins are completely booked for months, but one group had to leave early, creating the extremely rare vacancy. We got the cabin, beating some extreme odds.

The resort is only accessible by boat or by hiking. For this reason we were going to dine on our trail mix that we had shipped to the resort. The resort owner was intrigued by our trip, so he invited us to come to a staff party. At the party we had free fillet mignon, corn, potatoes, cake, beer, wine, and liquor, leaving us full and drunk. This was a big improvement over trail mix. Again, it seems we beat the odds.

Today was in the 90s. We were able to follow a shaded trail all day. Additionally, we walked along a glacial river. The river was so cold, the surrounding air must have dropped by 20 degrees. The shade and the cool river made the hike tolerable. We didn't luck out. You'd expect some days like this.


Rachel appreciating a food bridge and not another fording opportunity.

Rachel's foot resting on the deck of our floating cabin.